Gears & Gadgets: Fleet Management Part II - Maintenance Schedules
In the previous Gears and Gadgets column, “Introduction to Fleet Management”, we discussed the setup, record-keeping, and initial inspections of the bicycle fleet. In this column, we will discuss maintenance schedules to keep the bicycle fleet up and running.
There are so many factors that go into how much wear and tear a public safety bicycle will endure during its operation that it is hard to come up with a set of hard-and-fast rules. For instance, bicycles that operate in drier climates will probably need less drivetrain maintenance than those operating in wetter climates. Likewise, bicycles that operate on flat terrain will have less wear and tear than those operating in undulating terrain. Cyclists who “mash” their pedals are going to wear the drivetrain out faster than those who use a smoother cadence.
With all that in mind, below is what I consider the average maintenance intervals to be expected for bikes that are ridden regularly.
Each Ride
The rider should always perform the ABC Quick Check prior to each ride. This typically identifies most issues that will sideline a bicycle. Personally, I also add a headset check to the ABC Quick Check. That consists of locking the brakes and trying to move the bike fore and aft. If the headset is loose, you’ll feel the play.
Monthly
Clean the bike. Usually a simple dusting with a horsehair brush is sufficient unless the bike has undergone muddy conditions. Dirt will eventually impede the smooth operation of many components. In addition, keeping the bike clean helps to maintain a professional look.
With some bike lubricants, sludge tends to accumulate on the jockey wheels. Using a repair stand, you can clear the sludge by holding a flat head screwdriver on each side of each jockey wheel while turning the cranks.
Inspect tightness of the following bolts:
- Crank bolts
- Pedals
- Stem
- Derailleur
- Brake mounts
- Seatpost (if the seatpost is not of the quick-release variety)
Every Six Months
Check and lubricate cables. Using a needle oiler makes the job a lot less messy.
Lubricate all pivot points on the derailleurs and brake mechanisms. Again, a needle oiler makes life a lot easier.
Lubricate suspension if so equipped. I find a drop of oil on the front fork shock legs is helpful. You don’t want to overdo it as excess oil will attract dirt.
Annually
Degrease the drivetrain including the chain, cassette and front chainrings. If you can remove the cassette from the wheel and the crankset from the bike, even better.
Check the chain for wear and stretching using a chain checker.
Check the cassette and front chainrings for bent and/or worn teeth.
Check the wheels and hubs for smooth operation. Generally, sealed bearings have a very long lifespan, but they periodically do need to have their bearings repacked.
Do a lateral true of the front wheel. Check for loose spokes and tighten. A spoke tension tool is a good tool to have to check on spoke tension relative to the other spokes.
Re-grease the quick-release axles and lubricate the quick-release mechanisms.
Check the bottom bracket for smooth operation. Bottom brackets generally cannot be serviced, so if it is spinning roughly or grinding, replace it. I have found that bottom bracket failure tends to be fairly rare, especially on the more modern external bearing units.
Remove the pedals and regrease the threads. If the pedals aren’t removed and you have a heavy-footed rider, sometimes you can get a “cold weld” and the pedals will not come up unless significant force is applied to them.
Cable brakes: Check brake pads for wear, adjust brakes to compensate for wear from the previous riding season.
Hydraulic brakes: Check pads for wear, determine if the brakes need to be bled and do so, if necessary.
Tubeless tires: Add sealant.
Finally, clean and detail the bike, put touch-up paint on the chips and scratches the bike acquired over the year, and apply a coat of wax. This will have the bike looking good and ready for the next service interval. See Gears & Gadgets: Cleanliness is Next to Professionalism (February 2020).
Five Years
After five years of service, the bike should undergo a full overhaul.
- Replace the chain and cassette.
- Replace the cables and housings.
- Replace the brake pads (if not replaced in annual checks).
- Replace tires and tubes. While the tires are off, do a radial true of the wheels in addition to the annual lateral true.
- Check headset for service.
Retirement
A well-maintained public safety bicycle operating in ideal conditions should have a lifespan of 20 years, which would require three full overhauls. At the 20-year mark, the bicycle should be retired. While I personally own bikes that are well past 20 years old, the risks involved in operating a 20+ year old bicycle in the public safety role are far too great. Bikes operating under more severe conditions may only be good for one or two overhauls and need to be retired at the 10- and 15-year marks, respectively. With most bikes, there comes a time it is no longer economically feasible to repair it. I put that mark at when the necessary repairs cost more than a five-year overhaul.
Gears & Gadgets is a blog written by David Cohen #1116. It features various repair tips and tricks that David has picked up in more than 25 years of cycling, including 15 years of public safety cycling. Gears & Gadgets will also periodically review some of the latest “gadget” items of potential interest to public safety cyclists. The advice and opinions in this column are solely the author’s and should not be interpreted as IPMBA mandates or recommendations unless explicitly stated.
About the author: David Cohen is a 15-year volunteer with the Maryland-National Capital Park Police. When he isn’t riding or tinkering with bicycles, David can be found tinkering with vintage cars or his collection of 19th and early 20th century musical instruments. An avid historian, David enjoys researching and writing as well. He can be reached at onyxsax@aol.com.
(c) 2023 IPMBA.